J.S. Marcus for the WSJ on dining at the 3 star restaurant Vendôme on the outskirts of Cologne, Germany:
This isn’t just food; it is anthropology—a cultural cardiogram of Germanness that analyzes those fraternal twins, wanderlust and inwardness.
And on Chef Joachim Wissler:
Many of the world’s great chefs have learned from each other, and it has long been common to start a culinary career traveling the world in search of stints in the back kitchens of top restaurants. Mr. Wissler, by contrast, is a product of Germany’s apprentice system, which regulates the training of everyone from plumbers to violin makers. He can sound more impressed with his “master” status—the highest level in the apprentice hierarchy—than with his Michelin stars. “I’m a craftsman,” he says.